12/7/2022 0 Comments Jameson fink“First and foremost, if someone brings a special bottle from their own cellar, I’m going to do whatever they want me to do to it, up to and including shaking the sh*t out of it and then serving it in a coffee cup,” she says. Instead of stressing about the vintage, producer, condition, decanting, and glassware, Rodil takes a different approach. Be cautious with a wine more than three decades old, he advises, and open it 30 to 60 minutes before drinking.Ī restaurant setting, however, can make things tricky, especially when a sommelier is presented with a cellar treasure a customer has brought. It is like forcing an old and fragile man to speed up in a 100-meter race.”Īnd though shifting gears from old Brunello to aged Grüner Veltliner and Riesling from the Wachau would seem to necessitate a different approach, Frishengruber doesn’t decant the wine or open the bottle too early. “For me, to decant an old wine is a crime. If you’re itching to break out a decanter for your Brunello from the 1970s, Federzoni suggests you pump the brakes. The first would be: How soon before you eat are you supposed to open the bottle, and how should you serve it? Of course, being enthusiastic about drinking aged wines on their own doesn’t mean eschewing food pairing altogether. They seem younger and more fierce with time.” “They’re like the J-Lo or Benjamin Button of wine or something. … It’s common to have an element of heat, fat, sweet, and acidity in one dish, and all of those elements screaming, albeit very harmoniously, at eleven.”Ī caveat: First-growth Bordeaux from legendary vintages, as well as top Burgundy from the best producers, have a bit of an asterisk by them, Rodil says. The evolution of cuisine in a restaurant, especially in the U.S., is to have super-powerful flavors and textures. “I always want to take a moment with an older wine without food. June Rodil, MS, a partner at Goodnight Hospitality in Houston, offers a restaurant perspective. Mind? “Yes,” she adds, “because tasting an aged Brunello becomes an intellectual experience, not just a sensual one.” Describing a decades-old Brunello from that estate, she says, “It is wonderful to sip it and focus on the various layers of sensation that keep coming to your nose, palate, and mind.” Raffaella Guidi Federzoni, export manager for Fattoria dei Barbi, echoes these pleasures of enjoying an aged wine without food. He starts with a smaller glass “to get the first restrained aromas,” then later, at around the 10- to 20-minute mark, he’ll “change to a bigger glass and let the wine breathe more and give it more room to develop,” he says. Frishengruber also likes to change up the glassware as the wine evolves.
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